I made my own aluminum cable bracket bushing set, and ordered a new shifter cup, 42DD end linkage bushings, new shift tower bearing and seals, and also new shift box relay lever bushings.
O2a to o2j shifter swap install#
I have a bunch of parts on the way, and I will update this thread with results as I install the parts.
O2a to o2j shifter swap how to#
How to for removing and replacing a shift lever from B&M installation instructions: These can also be bought at ECS Tuning.ĭieselgeek Sigma 6 short shifter(plays with lever lengths on transmission side): ī&M short shifter (replaces shift lever): These bushings are the following part numbers: left - 1K0711067 - right - 1K0711067A. To my knowledge can only be bought with whole relay and end linkage assembly as shown here: Transmission relay lever plastic guide. Other parts in the shift box can wear out and cause play and sloppiness in your shifter. Definitely confirm what part you need before ordering.) The 1K0711699A P/N is for MKV cars, I believe, but don’t take me up on that. My local VW dealer said that the P/N without the A is the one that I want, and that decision was confirmed by ECS Tuning. Here is a picture of the cup, part # 1K0711699 (1K0711699A is also a part number that you may stumble upon. I think replacing the ball requires a new shift lever, but replacing of the cup is not too bad. Over the years this ball and cup can degrade. Right underneath your shift boot, there is a plastic looking ball and a plastic looking cup that provides a pivot for the shift lever. You may need to pry it out with some sort of tool. From there, pull UP on the gear shift with one hand and pull the bushing out with the other. Then use a torx on the retention plate screws. Just take off the two clips, you don't have to mess with recalibration. How-to: Disconnect the shift linkages from the transmission. Here they are from most effective to least effective as reported by other VW enthusiasts. There are some things that you can do to make your shifter feel more solid. Useful video on linkage calibration done by dieselgeek: Attached by 3 bolts to provide no relative motion between the sheaths of the shifter cables and the transmission. It houses another shaft which is pushed up and down and rotated by the cables to put the car into gear, along with some bearings and a locking pin, which locks the transmission into “home” position.Ĭable Bracket: This is the black steel bracket that sits atop your transmission.
Shift Tower: The cast aluminum piece that bolts onto the top of your transmission and its containments. These are used to calibrate the shifter to its “home” position. Shifter Linkages: The plastic pieces that attach to the ends of the cables. It houses all the linkages and parts that make the movements of your hand on the knob move the cables in the correct direction. Shift box: The entire rectangular box part that sits right under your center console. You row this back and forth through the gears. Shift Lever: The metal shaft that the shift knob sits upon. Shift Knob: The thing you hold in your hand when you’re driving I found that most of this info is scattered across multiple threads on multiple sites, so hopefully this takes the work out of finding some solutions to your aging shifter. This should apply to most later (2000+) MKIVs and I believe MKV cars are very similar in design, although not identical. This thread is intended to be an accumulation of knowledge that I have obtained on my quest for a better feeling shifter in my 2002 Golf TDI.
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